The aroma of warm spices fills a modest kitchen in Kurla West, Mumbai, as Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed deftly shapes vegetarian shami kebabs. This simple act of cooking becomes a portal, transporting him back to his childhood in Chotta Shimla and narrating a story of culinary adaptation, personal struggle, and an extraordinary rise in the world of fine dining.
A Culinary Foundation Forged in Adaptation
As the kebabs sizzle on a ghee-slicked tawa, Ahmed recounts the dish's origins. It was his mother's invention, a creative solution to a cultural shift. Hailing from a meat-loving household in Kanpur where mornings began with biryani, she married into a largely vegetarian family in Himachal Pradesh. "She missed those flavours," Ahmed explains. Her response was to recreate them, replacing meat with soybean chunks and chana dal, thus birthing a family legacy.
This recipe became a staple in his school lunchbox, so popular that classmates would quickly finish his share. Today, at 37, Ahmed is the Corporate Chef, India, for Passion F&B, the powerhouse behind acclaimed restaurants like Tresind Studio, Tresind, Carnival by Tresind, and Avatara, with outlets extending to the Middle East.
The Long and Determined Climb to the Top
Ahmed's path to this prestigious role was anything but straightforward. Growing up, his career options seemed limited to the army, police, or hotel management. Inspiration struck when he read a magazine interview of chef Bakshish Dean, a family friend he called 'chachu'. "I was fascinated by the glamour of that life," he recalls, cementing his decision to become a chef after Class XII.
Financial hurdles emerged immediately. To fund his education at IHM Lucknow, Ahmed took a student loan. His confidence during campus placements in 2008 was high, buoyed by his connection to chef Dean. However, the timing was brutal. The aftermath of the 2008 terror attacks meant scarce jobs and fierce competition. Ahmed failed every final interview round.
Needing income, he briefly took a teaching-adjacent role before securing a commis position at The Park Hotel in New Delhi in 2010. His big break came with the opening of Le Cirque at The Leela Chanakyapuri, where he beat out 20-25 competitors for one spot.
Grit, Sacrifice, and the Pivotal Phone Call
Ambitious, Ahmed aimed for The Leela's elite leadership development programme, a fast-track to leadership roles he compares to the "IAS for chefs." Rejected twice, he refined his skills and prepared meticulously for a third and final attempt. A stroke of luck helped: before his final interview, he read about a flight's emergency landing, which became a current affairs question he could answer flawlessly. He was selected in 2014.
The 15-month programme in Bengaluru was grueling. His salary dropped from Rs 22,000 to Rs 14,000 as he reverted to trainee status, all while repaying his education loan. The schedule was punishing. He and his roommate shared a single laptop, working in shifts from 6 am until 3 am, with only two hours of sleep in between.
After succeeding and managing a restaurant at Leela Kovalam, a life-changing call arrived in 2017 from chef Himanshu Saini of Passion F&B. An offer had come in 2014, but the prestige of hotels held him back. By 2017, the landscape had shifted. "I couldn't say no," Ahmed states. He moved to Kuwait to launch Tresind and, two years later, was tasked with helming Tresind Mumbai.
Initially, menu development was a collaboration with Saini. Since 2023, however, Ahmed has been crafting menus independently, a point of great pride. A defining moment came when Saini asked him to sign the iconic panda painting at Tresind Studio, a canvas autographed by culinary greats. "It was something I'll never forget," he says.
His menus today are a blend of ambition and nostalgia, featuring dishes like coastal lobster with shellfish curry and a refined dessert version of Kerala's Pazham Pori (banana fritters). Back in his Kurla kitchen, the golden parathas are ready. The corporate title fades, leaving just a plate of food—a testament to memory, resilience, and a long, determined climb.
Recipe: Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed's Vegetarian Shami Kebabs
Ingredients:
- Soya chunks: 250 gm
- Chana dal (soaked 2 hours): 100 gm
- Whole spices: Black cardamom (2), Green cardamom (5), Cinnamon (1-inch), Cloves (6), Peppercorn (1 tsp), Mace (1 flower), Dried red chillies (2)
- Ginger-garlic paste: 1.5 tsp
- Onions: 1 roughly chopped, 1 finely chopped
- Green chillies (finely chopped): 3
- Coriander leaves (finely chopped): 40 gm
- Mint leaves (finely chopped): 25 gm
- Lemon juice: 1 lemon
- Roasted chana powder: 1 tbsp
- Desi ghee: 200 gm
- Garam masala powder: 0.5 tsp
Method:
- In a pressure cooker, combine soya chunks, soaked chana dal, ginger-garlic paste, the roughly chopped onion, and all whole spices with 1.5–2 cups water.
- Cook until soft. Sauté on high heat to evaporate all excess water; the mix must be dry.
- Remove large whole spices. Grind the cooled mixture into a fine, smooth paste.
- Mix in finely chopped onions, green chillies, coriander, and mint. If too soft, add roasted chana powder to bind. Add garam masala and rest for 15 minutes.
- Shape the mixture into round, flat patties.
- Heat ghee on a tawa. Shallow fry kebabs on medium-low heat until a dark, crispy brown crust forms on both sides.
- Serve with mint chutney, lemon, and onion on the side.
