The Unbreakable Culinary Bond Between Lucknow and Kolkata
Despite being separated by hundreds of kilometers, the cities of Lucknow and Kolkata share a profound connection that transcends geography through their intertwined food and cultural traditions. This unique relationship, deeply rooted in history, continues to influence contemporary culinary practices and social customs in both regions.
Kolkata's Aloo Biryani: A Lucknow Legacy
Kolkata's famous aloo biryani stands as a delicious testament to this cross-cultural exchange. This distinct, fragrant, and remarkably light dish is characterized by the addition of large, marinated, and soft-cooked potatoes alongside traditionally prepared meat. What many might not realize is that this iconic preparation carries a strong Lucknow flavor that has become intricately woven into Kolkata's culinary identity over generations.
Wajid Ali Shah's Exile and Cultural Transplantation
The historical link between these two cities was powerfully highlighted during the Taana-Baana Lucknow–Calcutta session at the recent Mahindra Sanatkada Lucknow Festival. After being exiled to Kolkata in the 1860s, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah settled in the Metiabruz area along the Hooghly River, where he meticulously recreated a 'Chota Lucknow' – a nostalgic tribute to his beloved Gomti River and Awadhi homeland.
The Nawab arrived with an impressive entourage of approximately 6,000 people, including master chefs, skilled tailors, talented musicians, expert gardeners, traditional paan sellers, accomplished goldsmiths, and dedicated water carriers. This diverse group systematically introduced Lucknow's rich traditions to Kolkata, transforming the cultural landscape through various art forms and social practices.
The Birth of Aloo Biryani: Culinary Innovation
Kolkata's distinctive aloo biryani emerged as a direct tribute to Wajid Ali Shah's remarkable resourcefulness during challenging times. Historical accounts reveal that his creative cooks, facing budget constraints, ingeniously substituted mutton with potatoes, thereby birthing the now-iconic aloo biryani. This culinary innovation not only addressed practical needs but also created a lasting gastronomic legacy that continues to delight food enthusiasts today.
Cultural Exchange Beyond Cuisine
The cultural transplantation extended far beyond food, encompassing multiple aspects of artistic and social expression. According to researcher Anindya Banerjee, while connections based on Mughal-Awadhi culture, trade networks, and British colonial administration existed earlier, the Nawab's arrival in Kolkata fundamentally transformed these relationships.
Metiabruz emerged as a vibrant center for Hindustani classical music, thumri, kathak dance, and Urdu poetry, with Awadhi architecture, refined cuisine, and sophisticated court culture being systematically transplanted to this new environment. The locality developed a particular emphasis on music and performing arts, preserving Lucknow's cultural heritage in a different geographical context.
Expert Perspectives on Cultural Survival
During the festival session, designer and curator Srila Chatterjee emphasized that Wajid Ali Shah's story represents a powerful lesson in cultural survival and adaptation. Social brand founder Subrata Pandey noted the complementary qualities of both cities, describing Lucknow as representing tahzeeb (refinement) and elegance, while Kolkata stands for intellectual debate and thoughtful discussion.
Italian ethnologist Paola Manfredi, known for her work on chikankari embroidery, highlighted how traditional Lucknow textile designs and symbols, particularly the fish motif, played a significant role in shaping royal identity and influencing textile design traditions in the region.
Enduring Legacy and Contemporary Relevance
The session, which featured historian Nimra Rizvi and Naseem Iqtidar Ali alongside the other experts, explored how Wajid Ali Shah successfully kept Lucknow's cultural traditions alive in Kolkata following his exile. The introduced elements ranged from classical dance forms like Kathak and musical styles such as thumri to social practices including kite flying, pigeon racing, refined etiquette, and royal culinary traditions.
This historical connection continues to resonate today, reminding us how cultural exchange can create enduring bonds between seemingly disparate communities. The Lucknow-Kolkata relationship serves as a compelling example of how food, art, and tradition can bridge geographical divides and create shared identities that withstand the test of time.
