Unveiling Aurangabad's Culinary Treasures Beyond the Caves
When visiting Aurangabad, now officially known as Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar, tourists often flock to the iconic Ajanta and Ellora caves. However, during a recent long weekend, I discovered that this historic city, once the stronghold of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, offers a rich tapestry of culinary experiences that are equally captivating. The city's food culture is a delightful blend of Mughal, Deccani, and Maharashtrian influences, making it a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.
The Legendary Naan Qaliya: A Dish Fit for Royalty
At the heart of Aurangabad's culinary identity lies the famous naan qaliya, a dish with origins tracing back to royal khansamas who crafted it with limited resources to feed armies. This unique creation features a rich buff or mutton gravy cooked in large cauldrons, paired with a turmeric-singed naan. In present-day Aurangabad, no Muslim wedding is considered complete without this iconic dish.
My first taste of naan qaliya was at the legendary Abdul Jabbar Khaliya House, where the scene is nothing short of food drama. Throughout the evening, locals line up with bucket-sized containers to carry the gravy home. The staff efficiently doles out the gravy into bags and vessels while dough is rolled and slapped into tandoors. Priced at ₹120 per plate, with naan costing an additional ₹12, it's an affordable indulgence that showcases the city's vibrant food culture.
A Historical Melting Pot of Flavors
Aurangabad's history is deeply intertwined with its food. Founded by the Ethiopian-born Malik Ambar in the early 1600s, the city was originally called Khirki or Khadki before Aurangzeb renamed it and made it the capital of the Deccan region. This rich history is reflected in the city's cuisine, which combines Mughal techniques like dum cooking with local ingredients such as poppy seeds and chironji.
As Mudassir Nadeem, a city guide known as Aurangabadi Musafir, explains, "Qaliya has khus khus or poppy seeds, coconut, chironji, which gives it that rich flavour. At weddings, this naan is made with refined flour and khoya and kneaded with milk. There's a popular saying that 'baasi qaliya do guna maza deta hai' to indicate that qaliya tastes better the next day."
Street Food and Local Delicacies
The street food scene in Aurangabad mirrors Mumbai to some extent, with vendors selling pav bhaji, misal, pani puri, and vada pav. Small bhojanalayas serve vegetarian snacks like misal, usal, bharit, thalis, and fiery rassas, particularly along Jalna Road and Usmanpura Road. However, for those seeking meat-based delights, the city's Mughal and Deccani influences shine through.
At Shah Ganj market, near a mosque dating back to 1723, Yadgar Tikiya Pav Centre offers tikiya pav—a crisp buff patty served with toasted pav and boiled eggs fried in leftover grease. A few streets away, Appa Halwai, a century-old family-run institution, serves rich ghee-laden pedhas, mawa jalebis, layered khaja, and other khoya-based sweets.
Kebabs, Samosas, and Hearty Breakfasts
Despite the ban on beef in Aurangabad, buffalo meat is widely used in dishes like seekh kebabs, biryanis, and mandis. At Bismillah Kebab Centre, kebabs are a textural delight—crisp on the outside and soft within, served with tamarind and mint chutney. For samosa lovers, Shama Hotel offers meaty and lightly spiced chicken samosas, though the kheema version often sells out quickly.
Early mornings at Madni Chowk see crowds lining up for nihari and paya at New Shama Hotel. As former tour guide Faisal Quraishi notes, "A paya breakfast is very common here. It is rich and hearty and a good meal to get you through the day." The fatty nalli shorba is another must-try for those seeking a rich and flavorful experience.
Kantakky and Sweet Endings
One of the more unique dishes in Aurangabad is kantakky, a local twist on fried chicken with a generous spice mix reminiscent of Chicken 65. Best enjoyed at dhabas like Pasha Bhai's Dhaba on the road to Daulatabad, it's typically dipped in a chutney made from onions, tomatoes, and ketchup.
To conclude the food tour, Jublee Paan Shop offers delightful treats like dry fruit karanji, chocolate paan, and laddoo-like dry fruit and coconut versions. In a culinary landscape often dominated by major metros, Aurangabad stands out with its affordable, varied, and delicious offerings.
Aurangabad's food scene is a testament to its historical and cultural richness, offering a flavorful journey that goes far beyond its famous caves. From royal-inspired dishes to humble street food, every bite tells a story of the city's diverse heritage.
