One of Delhi's most cherished culinary landmarks, the nearly century-old Annapurna Bhandar sweet shop in Chandni Chowk, is serving its final customers. The iconic establishment, which has flavoured the city's celebrations since 1929, will pull down its shutters for the last time on December 31, marking the end of an era for Old Delhi.
A Legacy Sweetened with Memories
The news of the closure has left generations of loyal patrons heartbroken. "Don't say that. This is a legacy," expressed a shaken customer, reflecting the sentiment of many who cannot imagine Chandni Chowk without this institution. For families across Delhi, a visit to Annapurna Bhandar was a ritual, its counters laden with syrup-soaked and ghee-rich sweets that marked festivals, birthdays, and milestones.
For Mini Bagotra, 53, stepping into the shop was like stepping back into her childhood. She first visited as a little girl with her father, who had been a regular since his college days. "I've even heard stories about this place from my grandfather," she said. On a recent Tuesday, she returned with her son visiting from France, stating her trip to Chandni Chowk was incomplete without stopping here for favourites like Babu Sandesh, Dil Bahar, and the famous samosa.
First-time visitor Swaminathan from Tamil Nadu savoured a samosa, noting, "The filling is so fresh, and the outer layer is incredibly thin, almost like the skin of a momo. It's very comforting."
The Bitter Legal Dispute Behind the Sweet End
The shop's demise is not due to a lack of popularity but stems from a protracted three-year legal battle. According to Mihir Mukherjee (81), who has been running the shop since 1965, the landlord issued a legal notice seeking to reclaim the premises for personal use. "The matter went to court, and the verdict came against us, so we have to vacate," he explained.
The property owner allegedly demanded a monthly rent of nearly Rs 1.5 lakh, an amount the Mukherjee family found financially unviable for their traditional sweet business. The shop was founded in 1929 by Mohinimohan Mukherjee, Mihir's grandfather and a former railways employee. He identified a demand among Bengali officials who moved to Delhi after the capital shifted from Calcutta in 1911.
An Institution That Served Prime Ministers and the Public
Located near Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, Annapurna Bhandar became renowned for its traditional Bengali sweets. Its reputation extended far beyond Chandni Chowk, attracting the country's most powerful figures. Former Prime Ministers Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, and Rajiv Gandhi were among its patrons.
In a notable moment in 1983, following India's historic cricket World Cup victory, then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi ordered an assortment of sweets, including varieties of sandesh and pink rasgulla, to welcome the triumphant team.
The shop was managed by the older generation of the Mukherjee family. "The younger generation works in corporate jobs. They earn much more than this, but for us, this shop was our main source of livelihood," Mihir Mukherjee stated.
Livelihoods and Relationships Lost
The closure creates a void not just for customers but also for long-time employees. Bhopal Singh, who joined in 1989, said, "When I joined, I knew nothing about this business. In so many decades, I learnt everything here." He now faces uncertainty and may have to return to his village in Uttarakhand.
For many like him, the shutdown signifies more than a business closing; it represents the end of livelihoods, daily routines, and relationships built over decades. As the world rings in the new year, a quiet, poignant moment will settle over a small corner of Chandni Chowk, where a sweet legacy will become a cherished memory.
