The world of fashion has lost one of its most iconic figures. Valentino Garavani, the Italian designer who built a legendary luxury house and became known as "the emperor," died on Monday at his home in Rome. He was 93 years old. His foundation confirmed the news, though the exact cause of death remains unknown at this time.
The Birth of a Legendary Color
Valentino's legacy is inseparable from a specific, vibrant shade. It was a mix of carmine and scarlet, with just a hint of orange. The designer first saw this color on an elegant elderly woman at Barcelona's opera house. That moment inspired him deeply.
Several years later, in 1959, he introduced the hue to the fashion world with a stunning strapless cocktail dress made of draped tulle. From that point forward, the color carried his name: "Valentino red." It became the signature shade for his eponymous fashion group.
"I think a woman dressed in red is always wonderful, she is the perfect image of a heroine," Valentino wrote in his 2022 book, "Rosso" (Red). True to this belief, he included at least one red dress in every single collection he ever created.
A Pillar of High Fashion
Valentino stood alongside Giorgio Armani and Karl Lagerfeld as one of the last great designers from a defining era. This was a time before fashion became a highly commercial industry run largely by financiers and marketing teams.
He scaled the very heights of high fashion. In a major milestone, he became the first Italian designer to feature on the exclusive Paris haute couture catwalks. His passion for film drove him from a young age. He dreamed of dressing what he called the "beautiful ladies of the silverscreen."
His clientele included 1950s Hollywood stars like Lana Turner and Judy Garland. He eventually designed Elizabeth Taylor's wedding gown and was the first choice for numerous Oscar winners, including Sharon Stone and Penelope Cruz. He also famously dressed Jackie Kennedy.
Simplicity with Intricate Detail
Valentino's designs appeared romantic and simple at first glance. Yet they were always full of intricate, careful detail. "I love beauty," Valentino once said. "It is not my fault. And I know what women want: they want to be beautiful."
He created a vast business empire under his own name. Ahead of his retirement, he sold the company in 2008 for a reported sum of around $300 million.
A Life of Partnership and Craft
Valentino was born into a well-to-do family in Voghera, south of Milan. He was an only child. His father ran an electrical supplies company. From a young age, Valentino showed a talent for drawing and an appreciation for high-end clothing.
He studied couture in Milan and Paris. In Paris, he worked as an apprentice for the designer Jean Dessès. He returned to Italy in 1960 and opened his own fashion house in the heart of Rome. That same year, Elizabeth Taylor chose a white Valentino gown for the premiere of the blockbuster film "Spartacus."
Also in 1960, he met Giancarlo Giammetti in a Roman cafe. This meeting would change his life. Giammetti became his partner in both business and life for over six decades.
"To share life with a person for your whole existence - every moment, joy, pain, enthusiasm, disappointment - is something that cannot be defined," Valentino said of Giammetti. Giammetti handled the managerial side of the business, allowing Valentino to focus entirely on creative matters.
"To be with Valentino as a friend, as a lover and as an employee is a bit the same: you need a lot of patience," Giammetti remarked in the documentary "Valentino: The Last Emperor."
Signature Techniques and Accolades
Valentino was renowned for his use of georgette fabrics, chiffon ruffles, and ornate embellishments. One exclusive technique he championed was budellini. This involved hand-rolling long strips of sheep's wool into tubes, wrapping them in silk, and stitching them together.
His craftsmanship won him a multitude of awards. In 2006, he received France's highest civilian distinction. "Fame and fortune didn't change him," Giammetti said at the time. "He is still the little guy I met 45 years ago."
Those close to him described Valentino as superstitious and introverted. He loved chocolate, skiing, and his pugs. In a 2017 interview with Corriere, he confessed that he was afraid of death.
The Final Bow and Lasting Legacy
In 2007, Valentino hosted lavish three-day celebrations in Rome to mark his decades in fashion. The event included dinners, parties, and exhibitions, with thousands of guests flying in from around the world.
Months later, he announced he would stop designing for his company, which he no longer controlled after the sale. "I have decided that this is the perfect moment to say adieu to the world of fashion," he stated. "As the English say, I would like to leave the party when it is still full."
His final catwalk show was held in January 2008 in Paris, a city he called his second home. He credited Paris with teaching him to love both fashion and life.
The business that bears his name was bought by Qatari fund Mayhoola for 700 million euros in 2012. More recently, French luxury group Kering bought a 30% stake in 2023. They committed to fully acquiring the business from 2026, though this move has now been deferred to 2028 at the earliest.
Even in retirement, Valentino and Giammetti remained active in supporting the arts. Their foundation opened the PM23 gallery in central Rome in 2025, right next to the Valentino headquarters. The opening exhibition, titled "Horizons/Red," fittingly focused on the color most associated with the designer.
"Red isn't just a colour," Giammetti said at the gallery opening. "It's a symbolic and aesthetic force of extraordinary power." With Valentino's passing, the fashion world says goodbye to the man who gave that force its most famous name.
