In the heart of Mogadishu, within the heavily guarded walls of the National Theater, a different kind of resilience is being performed. Here, where a suicide bomber once detonated, the sound of poetry now echoes, offering a fragile counter-narrative to Somalia's long-standing reputation for violence.
A Nation of Poets in a Volatile Land
Somalia is often described as a "nation of poets," where the oral tradition holds a place of highest artistic esteem. This art form thrives in remote outposts and even among militants, venerating pastoral life and traditional roles within the predominantly Islamic society. Yet, for decades, this rich cultural wealth has been slowly stripped away by relentless conflict.
The scene at the National Theater embodies this struggle. Recently, 70-year-old poet Hassan Barre stepped to the podium in the largely empty hall. His somber recital emphasized good citizenship and the responsibility Somalis hold towards their country and each other. He was surrounded by aging peers in austere suits, some with hennaed beards and eyes clouded by glaucoma—guardians of a fading hope.
The Fading Glory and a Struggle for Support
Poets once flourished under the iron-fisted rule of Siad Barre, who was ousted in 1991. "We were treated like kings," recalls poet Hassan Barre (no relation to the former president), noting some received free housing. "The present administration, they are not giving much treatment to the poets and singers. We expect them to treat us the way we used to be treated."
The current reality is stark. The fragile federal government dedicates most of its budget to national security, leaving cultural institutions in limbo. The National Theater, inaugurated in 1967, shut down in 1991 and only reopened in 2012 after African Union peacekeepers pushed al-Shabab from the capital. Its revival was short-lived; months later, a suicide bomber attacked during a speech by the prime minister, killing the head of Somalia’s Olympic committee and at least seven others.
Today, reaching the venue near the presidential palace requires notifying intelligence agencies in advance, providing detailed vehicle information. Yet, poets still gather, fostering community in a sandbagged city ringed by checkpoints.
Preserving Peace Through Verse
Despite security and financial hurdles, the commitment remains. The Somali Council of Poets claims 400 members, including many in the diaspora. "One thing that unites all Somali poets, whether in Eritrea, whether in Somalia, everywhere, we stand for peace," said its chair, Hirsi Dhuuh Mohamed. He clarified they avoid direct politics, focusing their work on themes of security, good governance, and community integration.
Somalia's Culture Minister, Daud Aweis, acknowledges poets play "a vital role in Somali society," serving as a pillar for cultural vitality and peace. While his ministry offers limited funding for the National Theater, he told the AP the long-term goal is to expand support.
On the same morning Hassan Barre recited, young Somalis practiced a folk dance promoting traditional values nearby. Poets like Maki Haji Banaadir, the theater's deputy director, work "day and night" to keep the tradition alive and mentor the next generation. A popular figure, Maki once composed a song critiquing the uselessness of the Somali shilling in a dollarized economy—a testament to poetry's role in social commentary.
These artists represent a enduring thread of Somali identity. As the federal government's control weakens outside Mogadishu and regions seek secession, the poets' verses, shared at weddings and on local radio, continue to weave a narrative of peace and shared heritage against formidable odds.
