London's Historic Veeraswamy Restaurant Faces Uncertain Future After 99 Years
Britain's oldest surviving Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy, stands on the brink of closure after nearly a century of service, sparking a passionate campaign to preserve this culinary landmark. Founded in 1926, the Michelin-starred establishment has operated continuously from London's prestigious Regent Street location, but now faces eviction due to an unresolved lease dispute with its landlord, the Crown Estate.
The Lease Dispute That Threatens a Century of History
The Crown Estate, an independent property company whose profits flow to the Treasury, has decided against renewing Veeraswamy's lease, citing necessary building refurbishments that would be incompatible with the restaurant's continued operation. "This is not a decision we've taken lightly," stated a Crown Estate spokesman, revealing plans to convert the restaurant space into office accommodation and alter the entrance in ways that would make the premises inaccessible to the eatery.
While the estate has offered assistance in finding alternative West End locations along with financial compensation, supporters argue that relocating would strip the restaurant of its historical significance and disrupt nearly 100 years of continuous operation at the same address.
Royal Petition Gathers Momentum with 18,000 Signatures
Loyal patrons and heritage advocates have launched a remarkable petition directed at King Charles III, collecting over 18,000 signatures urging monarchal intervention to "protect a historic institution." Supporters plan to deliver the petition to Buckingham Palace, arguing that Veeraswamy represents "a living piece of shared cultural history" and a vital symbol of Indo-British connections.
The timing holds particular significance as Veeraswamy approaches its centenary in March, with planned celebrations including a star-studded dinner attended by celebrities and public figures demonstrating solidarity with the establishment.
Culinary Community Rallies Behind London Icon
Prominent figures from the culinary world have voiced strong support for preserving Veeraswamy. Celebrity chefs including Raymond Blanc, Michel Roux, and Richard Corrigan have joined the campaign, with Corrigan questioning, "Most European cities cherish their legendary restaurants. Why in the name of God would we want to lose Veeraswamy?"
Lucy Haine, chair of the Soho Society, emphasized the restaurant's cultural importance, stating that closing this "iconic London restaurant" would represent a "major loss to London's history and culinary heritage."
A Century of Cultural Significance and Celebrity Patronage
Veeraswamy's historical importance extends far beyond its culinary offerings. When it opened in 1926, it pioneered Indian cuisine in London, initially serving Anglo-Indians nostalgic for flavors from the subcontinent. The restaurant maintained operations even during the wartime Blitz, becoming an enduring symbol of resilience.
Co-owner Ranjit Mathrani told the BBC that the establishment initially attracted generals, civil servants, and businesspeople with Indian connections. Its guest book reads like a who's who of twentieth-century history, having hosted Indian leaders Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru alongside international icons including Charlie Chaplin, Marlon Brando, and Sir Winston Churchill.
The restaurant has even served at Buckingham Palace, catering to Indian visitors in 2008 and 2017. Perhaps most notably, Veeraswamy claims to be the birthplace of the now-iconic British combination of curry and beer, tracing this tradition to Prince Axel of Denmark's preference for Carlsberg with his meals during the 1920s.
As the March centenary approaches, the future of this culinary institution hangs in balance between commercial redevelopment and cultural preservation, with thousands hoping royal intervention might save a restaurant that has served as both dining establishment and living museum for nearly a century.
