The latest season of Netflix's hit series 'Emily in Paris' has sparked a fascinating conversation, but it's not about who Emily Cooper ends up with. Instead, the global spotlight is firmly on her dramatically transformed wardrobe as she takes her adventures from the chic boulevards of Paris to the historic streets of Rome. While romantic plotlines take a backseat, the fashion narrative in Season 5 has become the undisputed star, showcasing a bold Italian-inspired aesthetic that has viewers and fashion critics buzzing.
From Parisian Chic to Roman Drama: A Costume Revolution
After four seasons of defining Parisian style, Lily Collins, who portrays the lead character Emily Cooper, undergoes a sartorial metamorphosis in Italy. The series' costume designer, Marylin Fitoussi, masterfully orchestrated this shift by collaborating with an array of iconic Italian fashion houses. To distinctly separate the French and Italian style languages, Fitoussi enlisted designs from Fendi, Giambattista Valli, and Dolce & Gabbana for the Roman scenes.
This strategic move goes beyond mere label selection. The visual palette of the show undergoes a significant change. While Emily's Parisian life was often dipped in sophisticated monochromes, her Roman escapades are bathed in softer, brighter hues like beige and light green, reflecting a more carefree spirit. However, the true Italian flair comes through in the bold use of statement prints. Stripes and polka dots dominate, drawing direct inspiration from the dramatic world of classic Italian cinema.
A Tribute to Italian Cinema Icons
The fashion in Season 5 serves as a heartfelt homage to the legendary actresses of Italy's cinematic golden age. Emily's polka-dot ensembles are a specific nod to icons like Claudia Cardinale, Anna Magnani, and Sophia Loren, who were renowned for their iconic polka dot couture in timeless black-and-white films. Through Emily's modern interpretations, the show successfully translates that old-world, feminine glamour for a contemporary audience, making classic silhouettes feel fresh and flattering once again.
While some social media commentators have described the new looks as "dramatic" or "too much," the show's creators understand that both French and Italian style philosophies rarely shy away from being overdressed. In fact, the concept is embraced as a form of expressive confidence. The costume department took this brief and ran with it, delivering over-the-top looks that experiment with palette and pattern in unprecedented ways for the series.
Juggling Two Cities, Two Wardrobes
The costume design cleverly mirrors Emily's personal and professional juggling act between Paris and Rome. When her character returns to Paris, her wardrobe swiftly adapts. The outfits become more daring, sophisticated, and romantically tailored, showcasing a sensual edge that contrasts with the vibrant, free-spirited Italian looks. This sartorial dichotomy visually underscores her internal conflict and divided life between the two iconic European capitals.
As the season concludes on a cliffhanger, leaving Emily to navigate another heartbreak, fans are left eagerly specating about more than just her love life. The biggest question for many is: what will she wear next? The journey of this American expat, evolving from a Parisian novice to a style icon embracing Roman extravagance, captures a modern fantasy. It's the dream of reinvention, adventure, and doing it all with a show-stopping wardrobe that seems destined for the stars.
